Stockfish, salted cod, bacalhau, morue…: a matter of salt and terminology

风干鳕鱼,盐渍鳕鱼:关于盐和术语的讨论

2020-05-02 17:20 terminology Coordination

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Stockfish, salted cod, bacalhau, morue…: a matter of salt and terminology It is all the rage to talk about terminology and salted cod. Salted cod goes by many names around Europe: in Portugal it is called bacalhau, in Spain bacalao, in France morue and so on. Of course, the fish is the same and so is the process of drying and salting. But what is the difference between salted cod, fresh cod and stockfish? These terms are often confused. First of all, we have to pay attention to the kind of fish, as the name changes according to the process of conservation: it is either the gadus morhua or Atlantic cod. Here we face the first problem: are we sure what kind of fish is used in our own country? In Greece for example the name bakaliaros (μπακαλιάρος) refers to cod but also to another fresh fish, the Merluccius merluccius. In Italy merluzzo refers to salted cod, as does cabillaud in France, but if we use the word merluza in Spain it is not a cod but a Merluccius. Are you lost? Me too. Let’s have a look at the table: We can see that some languages name the same fish differently according to the process of conservation: if it is fresh, salted and dried or only dried. Others do not differentiate, or further still, use the wrong common name of the fresh fish. Another linguistic confusion exists in the difference between salted cod and stockfish. As we already mentioned, if it is salt cured, it is known as baccalà, while when it is air cured, it is referred to as stoccafisso in Italian. But, for example, one of the most famous Italian recipes including the name of salted cod, the Baccalà alla Vicentina (slowly braised with onions, anchovies and milk), is traditionally done with stockfish and not using salted cod! This linguistic richness reflects the widespread use of salted cod and stockfish across Europe. Salted cod is such a well-known product in Mediterranean, particularly Catholic, countries that it is hard to remember that most of the cod is imported from the North Atlantic. Since the late eighteenth century, Iceland and Norway have based their fisheries on exports to distant markets. The Atlantic cod was by far the most valuable species caught in both countries and was mainly exported dried to Southern Europe. But why is this fish imported mostly to Catholic countries? According to Grigson, “in the past, the strict dictates of the Catholic faith brought a demand for a regular supply of fish on weekly fast-days – not only Fridays, but often several other days. It was all very well to rely on fresh fish if you lived on the coast, or had access to a teeming river. But what if you did not? No refrigeration, bad roads, snail-slow transport… The salt fish was the answer. Salt cod was a cheap form of protein in the past”. This terminological insight helps us to understand how different countries receive and elaborate the same concept and mainly to understand what we eat! Written by Francesca Bisiani Terminology trainee at TermCoord References http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/food-drink-salting-away-the-treasures-of-the-sea-it-is-prized-in-portugal-beloved-of-the-basques-and-1428611.html Oddy, D., Drouard, A. (2013). The food industries of Europe in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries. Routledge Images https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/25/Saltfiskur.jpg https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/32/Morue_75_livres_ile_Bonaventure_vers_1930.jpg  14,
风干鳕鱼,盐渍鳕鱼:关于盐和术语的讨论 谈论术语和盐渍鳕鱼一时间流行起来。 盐渍鳕鱼在欧洲各地有很多名号:在葡萄牙称为bacalhau,在西班牙称bacalao,在法国叫morue等等。 当然,鱼都是一样的,晒干和腌渍的过程也是一样的。 但是盐渍鳕鱼,鲜鳕鱼和风干鳕鱼有什么区别呢? 这些术语经常被混淆。 首先,我们要注意的是鱼的种类,因为名字会随着加工保存的过程而改变:它在不同的地区被称为 gadus morhua 或者 Atlantic cod (都是大西洋鳕鱼的意思)。 这里我们面临第一个问题:我们是否确定在我们自己的国家里使用的是哪种鱼? 例如,在希腊,bakaliaros这个名字既指鳕鱼,也指另一种鲜鱼——欧洲无须鳕鱼。 在意大利,merluzzo指的是盐渍鳕鱼,和法国的cabillaud相同。但如果我们在西班牙使用merluza这个词,它就不是鳕鱼,而是无须鳕属的一种。是不是感到非常困惑? 我也是。 我们来看看下面的表格: 我们可以看到,有些语言会根据保存加工的过程给同一条鱼起不同的名字,取决于鱼是新鲜的、盐渍干的还是风干的。 另一些则不加区分,或者更甚,直接使用错误的鲜鱼通用名。 另一个语言学上的困惑之处就是盐渍鳕鱼和风干鳕鱼之间的区别。 正如上文提到的,如果是盐腌制的,在意大利语中被称为baccalà。而当它是风干的,则称为stoccafisso。 但是,举个例子,最著名的意大利食谱之一Baccalàalla Vicentina(将洋葱,凤尾鱼和牛奶慢炖),虽然食谱中用的词是盐渍鳕鱼,但传统上却是用风干鳕鱼做的! 这种语言的丰富性反映了整个欧洲对盐渍鳕鱼和风干鳕鱼两个词的泛用性。 盐渍鳕鱼在地中海国家,尤其是天主教国家,是一种非常有名的产品,以至于大家都容易忘记大部分的鳕鱼是从北大西洋进口的。 自18世纪末以来,冰岛和挪威的渔业都以向海外市场出口为基础。 大西洋鳕鱼是迄今为止两国捕捞的最有价值的鱼种,主要将干鱼出口到欧洲南部。 但为什么这种鱼大多进口到天主教国家呢?格里格森说:“在过去,天主教信仰严格规定了每周的禁食日,这也带来了定期鱼类进口的需求,而且不仅是星期五禁食日那天,其他几天也有需求。如果你住在海边,或者接近一条鱼类丰富的河流,吃新鲜的鱼是很好的。但如果你没有这样的条件呢? 如果没有冷藏设备,道路和运输条件又很糟糕,那么只好选择咸鱼了。盐渍鳕鱼在过去是一种廉价的富含蛋白质的食品。 这个对术语的探究能帮助我们理解,不同国家如何接受或表述相同的概念,更主要是明白我们吃的究竟是什么! 作者:Francesca Bisiani TermCoord术语培训生 参考文献 http://www.independent.co.uk/life-style/food-and-drink/food-drink-Salting-away-the-truures-of-the-sea-it-is-prized-in-portugal-beloved-of-the-basques-and-1428611.html Oddy, D., Drouard, A. (2013). The food industries of Europe in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries. Routledge 图片 https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/25/saltfiskur.jpg https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/32/morue_75_livres_ile_bonaventure_vers_1930.jpg

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